Entre Les Murs

Tiny Bubbles

We signed up for a Champagne tasting at Lavinia (the downtown wine store where we have taken classes and often go for tastings).  This was on a grander scale than other occasions when we've gone by for the weekly event, since it was their special quarterly "Soirée Dégustation" by invitation only for the affinity club members.  I could tell it was going to be special by the quickened pace and eager look on the faces of the other members who arrived while I waited at the door for Janet.


A dozen producers were present, including a number of the big houses, the grands marques, each featuring one or two of their products.  They included Pol Roger, Veuve Clicquot, Ruinart and Moët & Chandon.  As or more interesting were some of the second tier vintners.  While in search of Bollinger's Grand Année 1997 I met an Australian woman (while Janet was chatting with a tall, I'm-so-sexy-I-forgot-to-shave, Frenchman), in Paris studying for her masters in oenology, who was on the same mission.  She was dismissive of the inflated prices of the over-hyped big houses, and recommended Larmandier Bernier.  We fought our way to their almost abandoned table, twenty feet away from the melée around Bollinger, where we had to agree that they seemed the equal of the more recognizable names.

Often at these things you get the more mass-market cuvées, near the bottom of the line.  They're giving it away free, after all.  This time it was at least a small cut above.  Most of the bottles featured were for sale in the 25 to 50 euro range, which even for champagne is certainly not the bottom tier; but it's a long way from the premium products.  Happily, of those who had two selections, the second was usually a much more expensive bottle.  Sometimes you had to come back a few times before they had one open, but perseverance was generally rewarded and they were generous with the pour.

Alas, my palate must still lack refinement, because given a chance to compare I had difficulty appreciating the wine far elevated up the spectrum from its fellow offering.  The 1999 "Amour de Deutz" was indeed lovely: velvety, balanced flavours and just enough sweetness; but Deutz' Brut Classic, while much less delicate, was entirely drinkable and a fifth of the cost.  In the case of Pommery, I actually preferred the, albeit rather sweet, "Winter Time" bottle, which was a third the price of the much dryer but too subtle for me "Louise Pommery".

We enjoyed visiting the smaller producers in the Champagne region this summer, and found that, to our palates, we sacrifice nothing by saving money and avoiding the brand names.  I can't say we learned anything last night to alter that conviction - but I'm happy to keep tasting them all as they come my way, just to be sure.

posted 23.11.06