Entre Les Murs

Run, Run, Rouen Away!

We rented a car and took off for points West this weekend. Unfortunately this idea for the long weekend occurs to most other Parisians, who enjoy a bit of seaside this time of year and hot-foot it to Honfleur or the like. Janet's allergy to traffic had us up (well, the parade preparations did that) and going out the door at a ridiculous hour for a Saturday; but thankfully so because the traffic on the highway was already heavy at 8:30 a.m.

The early start also had us first in the door at Monet's house in Giverny. This is where he lived later in life, once he'd established himself, and painted his famous water lilies (among other things). The gardens (which he is purported to have once claimed were his greatest work. Gardeners.) While not as regular and sculpted as a classic English garden, where were extensive and elaborate.


As we rounded the pond and came upon the footbridge, we remarked how much Janet's mum would have loved it. A moment later a bright blue butterfly flitted past. You have to understand that Janet's mum loved her family, gardening and butterflies in that order. It sounds rather trite when I describe it, but it was a moving moment.


Our next stop was Les Andelys, the site of Chateau Gaillard, an 800 year old castle built by Richard the Lionheart to confine the French to what was then very measly territory. Alistaire Horne's Seven Ages of Paris tells how a nine-year-old Philippe Auguste gazed upon the castle and precociously said:

I only wish this pile of stones could be silver, gold or diamonds... the more precious the materials of this castle, the greater pleasure I will have in possessing it when it falls into my hands.

When it did eventually fall to Philippe in 1204, after Richard's death and following a lengthy siege, it represented the first important step in sweeping the English off the continent and establishing France as a significant European power.

Taking secondary roads we drove from Les Andelys to Rouen, where we spent the rest of the day. The area around the cathedral is full of ancient half-timbered houses, and while choc-a-bloc with tourists, still feels like a city going about its normal business.


After dinner at a restaurant on the old market square we walked back to our hotel. People were gathering on the on the banks of the Seine and on the bridge on our route. Clearly Bastille Day fireworks were expected, so we stopped mid-span and waited. They were launched from the next bridge East, and were impressive.

posted 15.7.06